How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: All Types Covered

That steady drip from your faucet sounds minor, but EPA data confirms it is not. One drop per second adds up to more than 3,000 gallons wasted every year and a measurable bump in your water bill every single month.

This guide covers everything you need to stop the drip for good. Here is what you will find:

• How to identify which of the 4 faucet types you have before buying any parts
• Tools and parts to gather before shutting off the water
• Step-by-step repair for each faucet type
• When to replace the entire faucet rather than repair it
• When the job calls for a licensed plumber

This guide is part of the DIY Plumbing Guides series covering the most common household plumbing repairs.

Identify Your Faucet Type First

Buying a replacement part before identifying the faucet type is the fastest way to make two trips to the hardware store. Each type has a distinct appearance and a distinct failure mechanism. The table below covers all four.

Before any repair, shut off the water supply at the angle stop valve under the sink.

Tools and Parts You Will Need

Gather everything before turning off the water. A scramble mid-repair with no water pressure, wet hands, and a disassembled faucet is avoidable.

For cartridge faucets specifically, bring the old cartridge to the hardware store or photograph the model number stamped on the faucet body. Cartridges are not universal, and the exact match is what matters.

If there is no shutoff valve (angle stop) under your sink, read How to Install a Shutoff Valve before beginning any repair.

Fix by Faucet Type

The repair steps below address the most common scenario: a drip from the spout with the handle in the OFF position. Base leaks and handle leaks are separate issues with separate fixes.

Ball Faucet

A ball faucet has a single lever that rotates in every direction, giving it that loose, fluid feel. The small springs and rubber seats supporting the rotating ball wear down over time. The ball itself develops grooves. When either fails, water gets past.

Steps:

1. Turn off both supply valves under the sink. See the shut-off water supply guide if you are not sure where they are.
2. Open the faucet handle to release pressure and drain remaining water in the lines.
3. Pop off the decorative cap on top of the handle. Remove the Allen screw underneath.
4. Lift off the handle to expose the collar and packing nut.
5. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the collar cap. Remove it.
6. Lift out the ball. Note or photograph its orientation before it comes out.
7. Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the two small springs and rubber seats sitting in the inlet holes.
8. Replace all seats, springs, and the ball using a repair kit ($8 to $15 for branded kits that include all worn parts).
9. Reassemble in reverse order. Hand-tighten the collar cap, then add a quarter turn with the wrench.
10. Turn the supply valves back on slowly and test.

Pro tip: Ball faucet repair kits from Delta, Moen, and Price Pfister include every part that wears. Buy the kit matched to your brand rather than individual parts.

Cartridge Faucet

A cartridge faucet has one or two handles with a smooth, controlled rotation and no grinding or grit. It is the most common type in bathrooms and newer kitchen faucets. The cartridge is a self-contained unit with internal seals. When those seals wear, the cartridge cannot fully stop flow.

Steps:

1. Turn off the supply valves and open the faucet to drain the lines.
2. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the screw underneath, and pull the handle straight up.
3. If there is a retaining clip (a small U-shaped metal piece at the top of the cartridge), use needle-nose pliers to pull it straight up and out.
4. Grip the cartridge stem with pliers and pull straight up. It should slide out without forcing.
5. Note the orientation of the cartridge (tabs, stem direction) before it comes out, or photograph it.
6. Bring the old cartridge to the hardware store for an exact match. Replacement cartridges run $10 to $40 depending on brand.
7. Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation. Replace the retaining clip.
8. Reassemble the handle, turn the supply on slowly, and test.

Pro tip: Moen offers free lifetime cartridge replacement. Call their customer service line with the model number before purchasing a replacement anywhere else.

Ceramic Disc Faucet

A ceramic disc faucet has a single lever and a visibly wide, cylindrical valve body below the handle. The handle typically moves up and down to control volume rather than rotating. Two ceramic discs slide against each other inside. Mineral deposits or a hairline crack in one disc breaks the seal.

Steps:

1. Turn off the supply valves and open the faucet to drain.
2. Remove the handle screw (usually under a decorative cap) and pull the handle off.
3. Unscrew the cylinder cap below the handle. This may require a large wrench.
4. Lift out the ceramic disc cartridge as a single unit.
5. Inspect the discs for visible cracks, chips, or heavy mineral buildup.
6. If only mineral-fouled: soak in white vinegar for 30 minutes, scrub with a soft brush, and reinstall.
7. If cracked or chipped: replace the disc cartridge. Cost is $20 to $50. Use the brand and model number for an exact match.
8. Lubricate the O-rings with plumber's grease before reinstalling.
9. Reassemble and turn the supply back on slowly. Ceramic discs can crack under sudden pressure, so open the supply valve gradually.

Compression Faucet

A compression faucet has two separate handles, one hot and one cold, each requiring multiple full turns to open or close. This type is common in homes built before 1980. A rubber seat washer at the base of the stem presses against a valve seat to stop flow. When the washer wears flat, it no longer seals and the drip begins.

Steps:

1. Turn off the supply valves and open the handle to drain.
2. Pry off the decorative index cap (marked H or C) and remove the screw underneath.
3. Pull the handle off. If it is stuck, use a handle puller tool ($5 at hardware stores). Do not pry or force it.
4. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise.
5. Pull the stem straight out.
6. At the base of the stem, find the rubber seat washer held by a brass screw. Remove the screw and washer.
7. Match the washer diameter and thickness at the hardware store. Replacement washers cost $0.50 to $2.
8. Install the new washer and replace the brass screw.
9. While the stem is out, inspect the valve seat inside the faucet body for grooves or pitting. A damaged seat requires a seat wrench to resurface or replace.
10. Reassemble and turn the supply on slowly. Test.

Repair vs. Replace: Cost Comparison

Knowing when to repair and when to replace saves time and avoids throwing money at a faucet that is at the end of its life.

Replacement makes more sense when:

• The faucet is more than 15 years old and parts are discontinued
• Multiple components are failing simultaneously, not just one washer
• Corrosion or mineral buildup is severe throughout the body
• Cosmetic damage (chipped finish, cracked handle) alongside the leak

When to Call a Plumber

Some faucet problems are beyond what a basic repair can fix. Knowing where the line is prevents turning a $10 repair into a $600 water damage claim.

Call a licensed plumber when:

• The leak is coming from the valve body itself, not the spout. Internal cracks require faucet replacement, not patching.
• The valve seat inside a compression faucet is deeply grooved and a seat wrench cannot restore a flat surface.
• Supply lines behind the wall are leaking. This is a pipe issue, not a faucet issue.
• The shutoff valve under the sink is stuck, seized, or leaking when you try to close it.
• After completing the repair, the leak continues or moves to a new location.

Cost reality check (2025-2026 data):

• Standard faucet repair by a plumber: $150 to $350 (Angi 2026, HomeAdvisor 2025)
• Faucet replacement with parts and labor: $250 to $600 depending on faucet model
• Emergency or after-hours service: add $50 to $100 to the standard rate

If the pipe behind the wall is leaking, read the Plumbing Soldering Guide. If the angle stop under the sink is stuck or missing, read Install a Shutoff Valve first.

Conclusion

A dripping faucet is one of the few home repairs where the gap between DIY cost ($5 to $15) and professional cost ($150 to $350) is this wide. Identifying your faucet type correctly, gathering parts before turning off the water, and following the type-specific steps above gets most homeowners to a dry faucet in under an hour.

If the repair does not hold or the problem is larger than the faucet itself, that is the right time to bring in a licensed plumber. For more DIY plumbing repairs covered step by step, visit the full DIY Plumbing Guides hub.

Disclaimer: Cost ranges listed in this guide are national averages based on 2025-2026 industry data. Actual costs vary by location, severity, and contractor. Always get multiple quotes for plumbing work. Prices in major metro areas may run 20-40% higher than national averages. This guide is for educational purposes; consult a licensed plumber for issues beyond basic DIY repairs.